Day 37 – Monday 7/4/22

Pierre, South Dakota to Gettsyburg, South Dakota – 72.4 Miles

After a day off and breakfast at Burger King, it was time to start pedaling again. While I enjoyed wandering around Pierre, the rhythm of being in a new place every day was expected now and staying longer would have been pointless. I rode up the hill from the river and found State Road 1804.

1804 is an appropriate number for the road, as Lewis and Clark began their journey that year. There were historical markers along the route today that indicated what had happened 218 years earlier. Imagining what that world looked like occupied my mind in a productive way. It becomes impossible to look at the Missouri River without seeing a vision of the Corps of Discovery moving themselves and their boats westward, or the Indian villages along its banks. The markers warn readers that what we see today isn’t what they saw, but at least it’s in the neighborhood and good enough for me. With each pedal stroke there’s a tangible connection with the past that transcends time.

One last look at Pierre.

There was a long climb leaving town on SR 1804. The positive thing was it paralleled the river, which offered some attractive places to take pictures.

Not too far down the road was a historical marker explaining three days of tense interaction with the Lakota Sioux Tribe who lived in the area during the time of the expedition. A Chief, Black Buffalo, defused the situation and Lewis and Clark continued on, but that might have been the end of it. Over 200 years later, it looks peaceful.

I’ve been asked, “Where are the people?” in the areas I ride through. Sometimes there aren’t any. South Dakota has about 12 people per square mile, so they can hide out fairly well there. Florida has 402 per square mile, which means you’re being watched. The roads today were mostly empty. Once I got away from the river, trucks towing boats and camping trailers disappeared. I had the place to myself.

I’ve seen more castoff cars and abandoned buildings out West than any other place I’ve traveled. It may be that scrapping cars is difficult when there’s no place to conveniently take it, and homes aren’t easily moved if they’re miles from anything else. Still, it’s a reminder that supply and demand determine value.

I made a supply stop 15 miles from my destination of Gettysburg, SD. Seven of those remaining miles were less than enjoyable, as the road department had gone through the motions of removing a layer of asphalt for resurfacing but hadn’t gotten around to completing the job. For a short time, there was a shoulder to ride on, but in poor condition. Eventually the shoulder went from somewhat paved to soft dirt, so I ended up riding on the unsurfaced road. That limited speed to 8 mph and gave me a body massage I didn’t need.

Gettysburg introduced itself by telling me what it wasn’t.

They do have old cars.

The town has about 1100 people, three hotels and makes a living from farming support and people passing through on the highway. Nothing was open today except the Dollar General, so that’s where I bought dinner tonight.

Plans tomorrow depend on weather. There’s a forecast for thunderstorms part of the day, so mileage may be between 40 and 90. I’d like to get to Bismarck within the next three days, and that looks possible with around 160 miles to go. Thanks for reading!