Day 45 – Tuesday 7/12/22

Jordan, Montana to Winnett, Montana – 77.2 Miles

If I could control my day to give me the most pleasure for the least amount of real or perceived aggravation, today would be one worth repeating. Ishmael and I were working well together, with me in good form and him reacting perfectly to every input along the way. Events unfolded naturally from beginning to end and made time and miles inconsequential. Effortless and enjoyable.

I left the Garfield Motel at 7:15, stocked up at a store down the street, then rode west on State Road 200 in the morning sun.

I’ve seen cattle, horses and goats throughout the Dakotas and Montana, but sheep were a new discovery. Shortly after this picture was taken, a woman on a horse trotted along the fence line towards the herd. She was wearing a cowboy hat. I wouldn’t mess with her.

Vacant buildings are almost always worth a picture. Like anything that was once valued when new, there’s a story behind how they look today.

As I’m riding along, I look for picture opportunities that make me think I’d be foolish not to take the shot. Sometimes this happens at an inconvenient time, like when I’m descending a hill at 30 mph and have a second to either squeeze the brakes or fly on past. Other times, I’ll have taken the picture, but on moving a few more feet down the road I see the object from a better angle. When reviewing them later at night, some that I thought were great, aren’t, and others have something I didn’t notice before.

The Adventure Cycling app had suggested that there were no services between Jordan and Winnett today, but they were mistaken. Thirty-two miles out I rode into Sand Springs, a couple of houses with a convenience store alongside 200. At exactly the same time, James and Stasia, a husband and wife from Portland, Oregon, rode in from the other direction.

They were on the way to Portland, Maine. As we ate lunch together, we shared information and stories from our travels. It seems to be impossible to meet someone cycling across the country who isn’t in a positive mood. Even when they talk about hardships, the accent is on how it made them better. There’s a risk involved in cutting loose from a predictable life and putting yourself in a position that may become uncomfortable, but it does have some rewards. The Sand Springs convenience store was an unexpected enjoyment.

When your business is in the middle of the middle of nowhere, you have to appeal to anyone passing by. They sell fuel and grocery items, have camping sites available with showers and bathrooms, but also function as a post office and store for the sale of used items. At the register they have a book for passing cyclists to sign, with their name and details of the trip. I was honored to record my entry.

Eventually, it was time to put in the next 45 miles to Winnett. This ranch had an interesting name. I don’t know how successful it is.

Unexpectedly, more trees started appearing across the landscape. I was at 3,000 feet elevation most of the day, but don’t know if it’s related to that. Maybe Montanans just didn’t get around to cutting these down.

Historical signs along the way have stated that Montana used to contain a shallow sea that split the country in half. They had dinosaurs and 30-foot-long crocodiles roaming around before humans showed up millions of years later. The sedimentary layers of the landscape give an indication of how it used to be.

At a point on the map called Mosby, there was a state rest stop. Restrooms, fresh water and picnic tables were available, as well as informational signs relating to history and geology. They did allow camping, which James and Stasia had told me about, but I wanted to see Winnett.

You can’t get to Winnett without first getting to Petroleum County.

Way back in Alabama, I saw a flock of birds congregating around a bridge over a stream. I’ve seen it twice in Montana. They may be eating insects near the water or doing something else entirely. Whatever it is, it’s a good subject for a picture.

Winnett arrived several miles later. It’s about a half mile from 200 and very quiet. With 180 people, maybe, they aren’t capable of making too much noise.

I was going to try camping at the suggested local park, but with no bathroom facilities nearby, that plan was nixed. The Northern Motel was listed as well, and I found that quickly in a town of 5 blocks by 5 blocks.

As I pulled up to the motel Mark, a cross-country rider from upstate New York, going from Washington to Maine, saw me and introduced himself. We were going to talk a lot later, but I had to get checked-in first. JR, the owner of the Northern took care of that. A lifetime Montana resident, he educated me about Winnett and life in a sparsely populated part of America. He said several school districts have had to consolidate to get enough players for six-man football teams and a bus ride to school may be 60 to 70 miles long because there aren’t enough students to make a local building worthwhile. However, I don’t think anyone I’ve talked to who lives here would prefer to move to a larger city. They’re happy where they are and have no desire to change.

After cleaning up, I set out to explore Winnett. I’m learning to appreciate what these small towns have to offer, and how each one is unique. Americans might get excited about a small French village, but someone from France might see Winnett as something special. The frame of reference you’re used to determines the reaction. My visit to the local grocery store ended immediately, as they close at 6 and I got there at 6:01. So, I continued on.

It wasn’t all decay and despair on my walk, as there are homes and businesses that are looking good and doing well. The Winnett Bar and Grill was one.

When I walked in, I didn’t know what to expect. With no options for food other than the trail mix and cookies left over from today’s ride, this was it.

I ordered a Coke and water from the woman behind the counter, then looked at the menu. A mushroom Swiss burger was an attraction, coupled with fries. It showed up 10 minutes later and was excellent.

That’s the best thing about getting off the main roads and finding places few others see. In contrast, a place like Disney World isn’t capable of making basic food as good as I received in Winnett because it’s not necessary. They’ll sell anything they can make at any price they put on it. People buy it because they have to. There’s nowhere else to go. When you need all the local business you can get, quality has to be good enough to keep them coming back.

I waddled back to the motel and spent an hour with Mark going over the things we’d seen and sharing tips discovered along the way. The view from outside the room was a good way to end the day.

Tomorrow I’ll be heading towards Lewiston but may finish somewhere else. I’d like to get to Great Falls in the next three days, then to Missoula by early next week. Still, lots of work left to do, but I’m happy to do it.